Thursday, June 14, 2018

Day 11 - Lekkerkerk to Amsterdam

Thursday June 14, 2018.

Our day started with a bit of a sleep in then then a leisurely breakfast after which we backed up our bike gear into panniers for the last time for the epic voyage back to Amsterdam via public transport with bikes.

Our  good samaritan with a bike rack on his car who had helped Wayne before, emerged from his room and helped us get to the bike shop in Krimpen aan de lek (Krimpen on the Lek (river - see almost fluent)) to pick up Wayne's broken bike. Both bikes were loaded onto the back of his car, and he took us to the ferry pier at Krimpen aan den IJssel about 10kms away to catch the fast Waterbus to Rotterdam, which took about 25 minutes.


We were loaded on with all the other bikes (bikes travelled free on the Waterbus) and as we pulled away, I noticed a giant Noahs Ark (De Ark van Noach) parked near the pier. I cannot find much about it, other than it was built by a Dutch carpenter and cost 4 million euro to build.



Although a bit cool, it was a very pleasant ferry ride into Rotterdam, and we got to see many of the famous bridges of Rotterdam along the way and a very large cruise ship berthed.




On the water bus we noticed a young woman who was also wearing bike gear, fluorescent colours and had a helmet with her. We identified her as non local due to these identifiers, and had a chat with her upon alighting. She was from Germany and was touring around as well.

We found our way to the Rotterdam Centraal Station - Wayne walking and pushing his bike, me trying to not go too fast on my laden steed in the streets of Rotterdam. Incidentally, Rotterdam is deemed the least bike friendly city in The Netherlands, however it was still eons ahead of what we get in Australia. We had to buy tickets for our bikes to make the journey and we had to get on a bike specific carriage. It was really warm inside the train.

We enjoyed the scenery rushing past, and saw the famous greenhouses of Westland which cover many, many acres and are essential for the Netherlands food and Tulip supply and export. The area is renowned for the technology and amount of food produced. Wayne commented when he used to fly into Amsterdam in the dark, these greenhouses were like a beacon to indicate Amsterdam was close. 



We arrived in Amsterdam, met up with our daughter to collect the keys to her home, then figured out how to buy a ticket for the train south. We now understood why the Dutch have more than one bike - getting bikes onto trains is inconvenient and expensive. So they have a bike for home, and a bike for work if they need to catch the trains and buses.

We managed to get to where we needed to be at about 2pm, cleaned the bikes and packed them away. Repacked our bags for flight and non riding mode and headed to our hotel in the north and west of Amsterdam and had a lovely dinner with our daughter recounting our adventure.

Total stats for the trip
653.9 kms, (Wayne did 506km on a bike not meant to do more than 10kms a day,)
one broken bike, one bike with precarious brakes, no flats. 
Elevation total for entire trip 905m. ðŸ˜‰

We estimate about 95% of those kms were on dedicated bike lanes, or paths or sections of the road for cyclists. Very few kms we were amongst traffic and we nearly always had right of way.

No angry car horns or abuse flung out of windows at us, and we even had cars stopping to let us cross roads when we did not have right of way. It would be lovely if NSW or Australia could come closer to this utopia for cycling.
Estimated amount of cheese consumed - let’s just say I have loaded for a few years worth of riding.
We visited the cities of Amsterdam, Rotterdam, Leiden, Den Haag, Sheveningen, Kinderdijk, Doertrecht, Lommel (Belgium), Maastricht, Eindhoven, Den Bosch, Utrecht and many other small villages along the way. All were quite different to each other, but all made cyclists feel very welcome.

Now onto to plan the next one - Europe again I think, maybe even more of The Netherlands but north Netherlands this time. Love the country. Spain is enticing as is Italy.... 

Wednesday, June 13, 2018

Tuesday, June 12, 2018

Day 9 - Eindhoven to Utrecht

Tuesday 12 June 2018

Distance 56.22km

Time 3:44:06
Average speed 15.1km/hElevation 51mTemperature 16C

Monday, June 11, 2018

Day 8 - Maastricht to Eindhoven

Monday 11 June 2018Strava Link


Distance 82.44kmTime 5:15:16Average speed 15.7km/h(Top speed 41km/h)Elevation 59mTemperature 18C

Sunday, June 10, 2018

Day 7 - Exploring Maastricht, Rest day.

Sunday 10 June, 2018



Distance 24.74kmTime 1:38:55Average speed 15km/h (Top speed 41km/h)Elevation 125mTemperature 22C

Saturday, June 9, 2018

Day 6 - Lommel to Maastricht

June 9 2018
Strava Link



Distance : 75.66 kms   
Moving time 4:46:41
Average Speed : 15.8 km/h
Elevation: 168m (a consistent rise)
Temperature : 22C overcast.

Friday, June 8, 2018

Day 5 - Etton-Leur to Lommel (Belgium)

June 7 2018

Strava Link



Distance : 88 kms   
Moving time 5:18:28
Average Speed : 16.6 km/h
Elevation: 68m (a consistent rise)
Temperature : 19C overcast, threatening to rain.

This was the best day of riding out of the lot... 

We headed out from the hotel after more early morning cheese loading. The weather was drizzly
and a little bit unpleasant, so we donned our rain gear as it seemed it just might get a bit heavier 
as we progressed.



Our rain gear lasted about 2kms as we were creating more condensation on the inside of our 
rain gear than was happening on the outside and we were starting to broil. So layers removed 
we set off to have a look around Breda, however, Breda's streets were made from cobblestones
which became very slippery when wet, and with my load on, things were getting a bit tricky with 
cornering and staying upright, so I pulled the pin on that idea and headed out of Breda into the
countryside being guided by Google maps towards a little town in Belgium called Lommel, on 
the way to Maastricht.

We set off at a cracking pace through some forests, along canals and even along busy roads - 
but never on the roads, very much enjoying the safety of riding in this country.

We stopped for a snack break at about 30kms at a unkempt driveway space, and while we were 
there a bit dumpster truck arrived and strategically parked next to a line of trees. I thought the driver 
was looking for a place to pee, so I took off not wanting to prevent him from his ablutions. Wayne
spotted that he was getting the crane sorted and running and stayed back to watch the driver 
manipulate the crane to pick up a very dead animal carcass from about 30m from where we had
been stretching our legs. No photos were taken of this event ... so did it really happen??


Google maps had us go through a little town called Baarle Hertog and the instructions were not very clear and so we got a little bit lost as we searched for the Bels Luntje. We stopped a couple of young men and asked them where we needed to go. Their english was pretty basic, and me, thinking we were pretty close to the border of Belgium and Netherlands, I asked them if we were in the Netherlands or Belgium. They seemed very confused by the question and had to look around for a bit. They spotted a car registration plate which had Belgium on it, and identified we were in fact in Belgium. They also directed us to the track we needed to be on.

Wayne & proceeded down the track when we came across some markings on the track which indicated we were crossing borders, cool, but then we crossed more markings as we crossed the border multiple times. We understood the actual border line was pretty wonky, but this seemed pretty ridiculous. I think we crossed borders about 6 times in about 10 minutes - more was to be revealed later.
We proceeded along the track and after a while we realised we were actually on a pretty famous rail trail - if you look closely at the sign above for the Bels Lijntje you will see a silhouette of a Steam train in the centre ... but of course we stumbled across this amazing piece of cycleway with no clue about its history until later. It is about 32kms in length.


Along the Bels Lijntje was a watch tower or bird tower, which we stopped and climbed up to get some elevation to have a birds eye view of the surrounds. Very flat, wet & quite pretty.

A funny thing happened as we cycled along this trail was a group of young school kids about 7 years old walking along. When the adult in the lead saw cyclists approaching they blew their whistle, the kids all went to one side to make room and as we passed they chanted something in Dutch. Which may have been something like "keep going, keep going, keep going" or "go fast, go fast, go fast", it was hilarious.

We continued to ride for many kilometres through forests and along canals, then it was time for lunch and a very strategic sign on the path pointed us to a restaurant not 100 m from the path into Ravels, and just in time too as it was starting to get quite hot with the cloud cover having been burned off.

One of the joys of riding along this trail was the number of grey nomads cruising along the canals. Just like the caravans in Australia during the summer, the Dutch and Belgians cruise the canals, which can also get a little bit congested.


We just loved the scenery along this trail.



As we progressed, Wayne promised ice cream at the 70kms mark, well it just so happened to be a fabulous, newly opened homemade ice cream shop on the track we were heading along to Postel (Belgium).  It is situated on an apple orchard and had just been opened by a young man on his dad's orchard. He makes all the ice cream himself, including the apple sorbet and Belgian chocolate based ice cream. It was delicious ... if you are on the track you really must stop in and taste it.

We finally made it into Lommel, and then had a bit of a problem finding a place to stay as there was a cycling event on in the town on the approaching weekend. We eventually found a room in a newly built hotel on the edge of town.

We then walked into town for dinner and found a small restaurant that served some Belgian specialties and in house special dishes. There is a steak and special gravy under those frites.

It was a really great day, and I think the best day as we were mostly on cycle ways with very little navigation required. The scenery was stunning and we came across quite a lot of wildlife.


And remember that crossing of the border thing in Baarle Hertog? When we finished for the day we looked up what it all was about - parts of the little town in the Netherlands is a exclave of Belgium, which means that some roads and houses are in the Netherlands and some are in Belgium ... no wonder those young men were confused when I asked them where we were!! They probably didn't know either depending on which side of the street we were in.


And Wayne broke the brakes on his rental bike ... more tomorrow.

Thursday, June 7, 2018

Day 4 - Lekkerkerk to Etton-Leur via Dordretch & Breda


June 7 2018

Distance : 74.88 kms   
Moving time 4:42:20
Average Speed : 15.9 km/h
Elevation: 103m
Temperature : 24-29C Hot and sunny

Wednesday, June 6, 2018

Day 3 : Broken Bike, ride around Kinderdijk


June 6 2018
Strava Link


Distance : 24.86 kms   
Moving time 1:46:26
Average Speed : 14 km/h
Elevation: 41m
Temperature : 26C

Tuesday, June 5, 2018

Day 2 : Scheveningen to Lekkerkerk.


June 5 2018
Strava Link

Distance : 71.9 kms   
Moving time 4:39:52 
Average Speed : 15.4 km/h
Elevation: 158m
Temperature : 20C

Monday, June 4, 2018

Day 1, Amsterdam to Scheveningen June 4 2018


June 4 2018
Strava Link
Distance : 75kms   
Moving time 4:36:57 
Average Speed : 16.3 km/h
Elevation: 88m
Temperature : 18C



  • Click on images if you wish to see them bigger.



We set off about 8:15 after a short breakfast in our room and after packing everything we needed into our panniers.



We headed out toward Den Hague, planning to drop into Leiden, a small town which had been recommended to us by a Dutch national, so it must be good..

It did not take long for us to be out of the Amsterdam city limits and into farmland and to come across our first windmill in the wild, which was quite exciting. As we were taking photos a group of older cyclists stopped to chat with us about where we had come from and what our plans were. They were all on e bikes due to the wind, they said,


Leiden is 43.5kms from Amsterdam and we stopped there for a break and to have a look at some of the sights. Leiden is home to the Netherlands’ oldest university and the birthplace of Rembrandt. We tried to find the Americans Pilgrims museum, which we did find, but it was closed on Mondays, Tuesdays and Wednesdays. Leiden is where the English Pilgrims prepared for and left for the US on the Mayflower in those early days of migration. We had morning tea near the historic windmill (Molenmuseum de Valk) over looking the river / canal. We then ventured into town to the tourist place to find a bathroom and we discovered the town has a historic mound (Burcht Van Leiden) and lookout to explore so we went there to have a look. It was very interesting and worthy of climbing the many steps, to our amusement, some some Dutch school students were on a field trip and decided "they don't do steps". "We are Dutch, we don't do elevation" was our in house joke for the rest of the trip.

Following this, we rode around the town for a bit and found a nice park to have a rest (In my case a sleep, jetlag still having an effect on my fatigue levels).

We set off after some lunch and continued toward the Hague, cycling through some lovely forests and trying to ensure we didn’t miss any signs to keep us on the right path.




We arrived in the Hague and headed for the Mesdag Panorama Art Gallery, which was an unexpected surprise and Wayne's choice of things to do in the Hague. At the front of the building is normal art gallery, but then you go through a corridor and up some stairs and the Panorama is just there and jaw dropping. It was incredible and well worth visiting.




After this we needed to find some accommodation, we rode around the city for a bit, but we could not find accommodation that could also provide a secure lock up for our bikes, so we found somewhere to have dinner that had wifi and decided to head out to Scheveningen about 3kms away. This is a tourist spot with 11kms of beach, so had a good selection of accommodation. We stayed at the Badhotel, which had a pretty good deal including a yummy breakfast and secure lockup for the bikes.




Seeing we already had eaten earlier, it was washing the clothes and head to bed sort of night.

Fun fact: Anecdotal evidence exists of the name Scheveningen being used as a shibboleth during World War II to identify German spies: they would pronounce the initial "Sch" differently from Dutch native speakers. (McNamara, Tim (2005). "21st century shibboleth: language tests, identity and intergroup conflict". Language Policy. Springer Netherlands. 2005 (4): 351–370).